Miu Miu SPRING SUMMER 2019

Styrofoam supersized cutouts of the letters m, i, and u were stacked randomly around the Conseil économique, social et environmental, as sculptures and as seat benches. Paired with slide projections of up close portraits of models taken from past seasons’ shows, Miu Miu set the tone for a fast paced show offering suggestions for younger women to get dressed up.    

The Miu Miu logo, deconstructed into separate letters and then reassembled to form different configurations of the original, pivoted the threads of the collection that seemed to shred the classic elements of glamour and elegance – silk faille dresses and tailored jackets were reworked in a way to filter out the surface glow of what the original garment represented. Jackets no longer felt formal and evening dresses were made with industrial fabrics for daywear. The clothes in this collection seemed individually tailored to the models and potentially to the prospective customers who will wear and treasure them as their own. Even the models’ hair and makeup had a kind of disheveled and haphazard look to compliment the idea of reusing and remixing different elements of the wardrobe to set a new template for what elegance is in this digital fashion cycle.

Strong tailoring was the backbone of the collection that combined various jackets and coats with mixtures of embellishment and glamour that dotted the lineup, opening with a black tailored fitted jacket worn over a grey silk shirt. A large, silk, floral bow tie at the hips heightened the high fashion quotient of a double-breasted jacket paired with a bright fuchsia shirt. The light pink and yellow sheath dresses with bows were unfinished at the edge, giving the otherwise polished look the feel of a homemade garment.  The rough fabric of some of the dresses, like worn denim, juxtaposed with their innate glamour and chicness.

The series of sequins dresses with hems left intentionally unfinished at the end of the show were worn in a manner of haste and carelessness. The light yellow, deep v-neck, nylon taffeta, micro flare dress worn with a black bra and knee high socks recalled the mood of the resort show in July at the Hôtel Régina, then transformed into one large suite like the cardigan set with sheer sparkling black skirt and undershorts.  

This is perhaps Prada’s answer to sway her younger customers with couture-level garments, but treated in a way that make them less precious and perhaps more relevant for today’s millennial wardrobe – a trend away from the recent the streetwear takeover of high fashion.  Satin platforms heels in black, fuchsia, and grey along with ornamented sandals, low patent leather heels, and black knee stockings completed the ‘handmade’ looks.

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Photos courtesy of Miu Miu