Issey Miyake | SS23 Collection
by Jess Ferguson
Issey Miyake’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection, A Form That Breathes, was shown at Paris Fashion Week on September 30 and blended sculpture with fashion, rigidity with fluidity.
The first series is TORSO, which used a single piece of fabric to create a sculpted torso shape in the pieces. The structured material appears stiff, but as the models walk, there is more flexibility and movement.
A subsection of the TORSO series, TORSO JUXTAPOSE, is similar in silhouette and fabric, but uses pigmented clay forms to give texture, color, and more dimension to the looks.
The next series, R COAT and R SHIRT, also utilize the silhouette as an art form; this time, with more roundness and curves, particularly around the shoulders. The materials are stretchy yet durable, meant for functionality.
The subset RESONANT SUIT PB uses 100% plant-based polyester fiber for the line of colorful suits that utilize Issey Miyake’s pleating technology to create wavy textures.
LINKAGE is a knit series that incorporates both roundness and sharpness of varying knit techniques with recycled polyester. The line plays off the idea of wearable artwork, giving a bouncy yet statuesque look to the models.
The knit series ASSEMBLAGE has a more soft, light, flexible look—using delicate yarn and multiple knitting techniques, it emulates transparency and dimension.
The NUDE series is inspired by abstract sculptures, using sheer yarn panels to create a more straight, structured silhouette. The pieces have high color contrast and can be worn backwards as well to emulate the experience of viewing artwork.
Similarly, SCULPTURES continues this artwork motif in an accessories collection through 3D scanning technology from real sculptures made by the design team. The accessories use brass and/or tin alloy to give wearers artwork that fits into their daily ensembles.